Hill People

Evan and Morgan's Notes from along the way.



A double date on the Middle Fork's Spouse Wall

A double date on the Middle Fork's Spouse Wall

Written by Evan Noronha on 6/7/2025

It’s a rare treat when three friends are all psyched for a multipitch day—and even rarer when the route options are stacked and side-by-side. Especially when Morgan decides she’s ready to swing leads. Last Saturday, the stars aligned: Morgan, Jaimi, Jaimi’s new-to-the-scene man-friend Spoons, and I paired off to tackle twin five-pitch sport routes up Spouse Wall, deep in the Middle Fork Snoqualmie Valley.

The mission unofficially kicked off the day before. I got a text from my friend Ben: a casual Friday afternoon hit to a new-to-me crag with a lineup of bolted multipitch climbs, all sub-5.10. I debated whether six days straight on rock and plastic was wise, but the offer was too good to pass up—and it doubled as a scouting trip for the still-loosely-planned group outing the next day. In short: the climbing was solid, the temps were too high, the company unbeatable, and the views rivaled the lower Sierra. Note to self: rappelling low-angle slabs still sucks.

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We rallied in the living room at 7:30 a.m. and were rolling by 7:45, eager to beat the midday heat. An hour later, we were stacked into Jaimi’s Subaru, weaving through old-growth forests and breezing past a half-mile of cars parked for Seattle’s favorite sufferfest hike.

I've been waiting for a couple weeks to do a hands-on anchors and workshop with Morgan. Last week, I finally acquired a couple extra hangers and chains to set up a true-to-form two-bolt anchor station and I wrote up the corresponding curriculum to cover the range of single- and multi-pitch anchors one may encounter. Instead, she decided the car ride to the wall was the best time to cover these topics—using just a notebook and pencil. On occasion, I'd catch bits and pieces of a very similar conversation taking place between Spoons and Jaimi in the front seat. We had time to cover the most common two-bolt anchor setups you'd come across climbing in the West, how to set up a quad anchor on all of them, how to belay from above as a leader, and how to clean the quad in a sport-climbing context. Plenty to build on later.

We parked at the Garfield Ledges trailhead and hiked twenty minutes uphill to the base of Aspergillus and Fusarium, two 5.8 five-pitch romps.

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Ben and I had climbed Aspergillus the day before, so this time Morgan and I queued up for Fusarium while Jaimi and Spoons headed up the adjacent line. Once the party ahead cleared the belay bolts, we clipped in and started up.

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I climbed with my camera mounted on my pack’s shoulder strap, which made even moderate cruxes feel extra spicy. But I managed to catch some great shots of my friends mid-route.

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As promised, P1 was dirty and vegetated, punctuated by a patch of yellow wildflowers. I think Morgan was fonder of the garden features than I was.

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At the first belay, after a little back-and-forth with Spoons and Jaimi, we decided that half an hour of theoretical discussion had been enough for Morgan to feel confident taking the sharp end for the second pitch! I would have been more apprehensive, but I knew Morgan saying she was confident meant that she would be dialed. And we were sharing an anchor with the climb to the left, so she'd get a little supervision for the complex bits, just in case.

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My worries were unfounded. After a quick lead to the next anchors, I felt the rope come tight and before I knew it, I was cloved in to the next anchor.

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The climbing itself? Like many bolted multipitches: a bit repetitive and not particularly inspiring. But the company and the alpine views were the real reward. Morgan and I swapped leads up the remaining pitches, cruising through mellow slab cruxes and regrouping at the summit with Jaimi and Spoons.

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We chatted a little bit, enjoyed some snacks, took in the views, then bushwacked back to the main hikers trail for a quick descent back to the car.

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The hike out featured the usual post-crag rituals: salmonberry foraging, weird tree poses, and inspecting the mysterious bubble nests wriggling with tiny creatures.

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With the crux of our day down, the rest was fun and games. We wrapped up the day with a dip in the swimming hole and headed back to Settle for a delicious bowl of poke at 45th Stop and Shop in Wallingford before returning home for a well-deserved nap.

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